Walking around at a congress for professional photographers with a 25 Euro plastic toy camera, provokes some strange looks sometimes. I only had time to shoot one roll of Kodak Portra 160NC film (medium format). Looking at the very particular look the Holga gives these pictures, I should have shot a lot more frames. It’s not that these are great pictures, but I still like them.

The first picture was shot from my hotel room balcony and all the others were shot during a 15-minute walk.

Small things can make a big difference to a photographer, sometimes they are not even directly photo related. It’s winter here in Belgium and even though we got rid of the snow, it’s still pretty chilly if you have to shoot outside for longer than 10 minutes. I swear by outdoor gear when it comes to picking the right trousers, shoes, socks, jacket and a hat for working outdoors but that always left me with cold hands. I tried photographing with thick gloves, thin gloves and everything in between but I always ended up putting taking them off when working (and lost countless pairs of gloves on location). I even tried some gloves with a removable flap for the fingers but it just didn’t feel right. A couple of weeks ago I got my hands on/in a pair of Etre Touchy Gloves and I’ve been very happy about them.

These gloves look and feel they were made by your grandmother and that’s not a bad thing at all. The lambs’ wool feels incredibly comfortable and the gloves fit my medium sized hands perfect. The idea behind these gloves is one of those why-didn’t-I-think-of-it-myself ones. Just leave the fingers you need exposed: thumb and index finger. The material gives me enough grip to comfortably hold my camera and other equipment.

If you are embarking on a polar expeditions, these gloves are not for you. Your thumb and index finger will get cold. But I was pleasantly surprised how comfortable they are when photographing for a couple of hours in temperatures around freezing. The exposed fingers got cold but never went numb. So I’d say (exposed) thumbs up.

You’ve already seen the digital shots of my improvised test shoot with Lut. The main goal of this shoot was to test my new lights and modifiers. For that kind of stuff, the instant feedback of digital is certainly very convenient. But I couldn’t resist quickly shooting a couple of rolls of film with the Hasselblad. The pictures didn’t completely came out like I hoped for, but hey, that’s what test shoots are for.

Have a nice weekend!

Last Saturday my wife was out on a hen party and my parents kidnapped my kids, so I unexpectedly ended up home alone. Since I received some new studio lighting equipment last week, I couldn’t resist setting up a quick improvised test shoot. I asked on Twitter if anyone wanted to pose for me and Lut, the wife of fellow photographer Kristof, volunteered. Thanks Lut for being so stunning and patient.

We started out with a Hensel Expert Pro 500 monobloc with a 150 cm octabox to camera left as the main light. A second Hensel monobloc with a softbox was placed on the opposite side. This second light performs two duties: adding light to the brick wall and taking care of some separation by spilling some light on Lut and the couch.

Here the main light is the Hensel monobloc with a beautydish. A Sunbounce micro-mini below and a pro to camera left, are used as fill light. A second Hensel monobloc with a softbox was placed on the opposite side to get a tiny bit of hair light.

For the last image, we replaced the softbox on the light behind Lut by a standard reflector and a grid. It was pointed to the floor behind Lut to create a streak of light.

I’ll talk about the how and why of the Hensel gear soon, but first I want to do some more testing. I also shot 3 rolls of film on the Hasselblad, if anything decent comes out of it, I’ll post that once I get the films developped.

Just after I published my previous blog post about how I’m doing with my medium format film camera, the doorbell rang. The DHL guy seemed to be a bit disappointed when “Stephani” turned out not to be a sexy babe but the last name of a fat photographer. I, on the contrary, was pretty excited by his visit because he brought me my new scanner: the Epson Perfection V700 Photo.

I did quite some research about the options to scan the negatives of my Hasselblad 500cm. Once I’ve learned to work with it, I’ll write a more in-depth review about why I choose it and if it is able to meet my (high) expectations. For now, I’ll leave you with some first impressions.

I must admit that I was pretty sceptical when die hard film fans stated that a well scanned medium format negative could hold it’s own against a digital file from a modern DSLR. But now, I’m not so sure about that anymore. I don’t have enough knowledge and experience yet to make a founded statement on that. Too be honest, I don’t even want to spend my time on doing scientific tests to find out what is best. At the moment I think that you can’t really compare film to digital in a completely objective way. It’s like vinyl vs CD, sure a CD is cleaner but the technical quality of vinyl isn’t that bad and it has something that digital lacks: character. Like cd (or iTunes), I believe that digital is probably the best option for most photography but film still has it’s place if you’re after that certain look.

But back to the Epson V700, here are my first impressions:

- The thing is huuuuuge, it looks more like a desktop copier than a scanner. But it doesn’t look out of place next to a trendy Mac.
- It all feels pretty sturdy and professional.
- It comes with adapters for different sizes of film.
- I read some horror stories about these film holders but I found the MF holder to be pretty practical.
- The MF film holder holds 6 square negatives. That’s better for productivity than the 2 I had on my old scanner.
- Preview scanning is pretty fast
- Scanning time at 1200 dpi is rather fast too
- Scanning time at 2400 dpi takes a bit longer, but I’d rather have a slow but good scan than a fast but bad one. I haven’t tested higher resolutions yet.
- I’ve heard lots of good things about the Silverfast SE6 software that came with the scanner. The more advanced version of this software is supposed to be even better but for now I’ll stick to the SE-version. There’s already way more options in it than I can understand. It’s not “dummy”-software (although it probably has some dummy-mode”. That means that I’ll probably have to go through a steep learning curve but if that makes my scans better, that’s time well invested.
- Last observation for now: I’m blown away with the image quality (I bet you saw that one coming).

I only did a couple of test scans last night. The difference with my old scanner is huge. Not only in the resolution but also in the gradations captured. In the picture above, the little girl was a bit blown out. I tried to scan it for safety, so I got a pretty dull grey image that would give me more options for some dodging and burning. But before the dodging and burning, I cleaned up the dust and scratches.
The image below was shot on color film (Porta 400NC) and converted to black and white, I also did some cleaning up and some minor dodging and burning.

Scanned at 2400 dpi the above image of my wife became a 5115 x 5010 pixel image. That’s a pretty big file hey. Below you can see how much detail is present in a 100% crop. I must say that I found that to be pretty impressive.

Now I’m even more desperately looking for some free time to do some test shoots with the Hasselblad.

So how am I doing with my new/old Hasselblad 500cm? Well, I’m still in love with that camera but I haven’t been able to give it as much action as I would like to. I’ve been so busy that I shot only 8 rolls of film so far (including the 3 test rolls before I bought it).

Here’s one more of the session with my lovely wife:

I also shot some pics with my 5D mkII and the 50mm lens during that shoot, mainly as a digital polaroid to check if the exposure I got from my handheld light meter were correct. Here are some of the digital pics:

I really want to do some posed testshoots soon. But because I just don’t seem to find the time, I played around with a roll of expired film to see how I’m doing with the Sunny 16 rule.

I also tried doing reportage style stuff indoors with a roll of 400 iso black and white film. Just to see how I would do when getting some meter readings every now and then, and then just guess for the rest.

I really enjoy the challenge the Hasselblad throws at me. It makes me think so much more about my images. For the first time in quite a while I feel like a kid in the candy store when I think of all the possibilities and things that I still can learn about photography like:

- discover what films I like best
- start developing my own film again and find out the results of different chemicals with different films
- learn to make decent scans (these scans are all done with my crappy old scanner, but a new one is on it’s way)
- try out flash with film photography
- …

For now on, I’ll try to learn this camera inside out but I’m pretty sure it will find it’s way in my work for some assignments (something I didn’t consider at all when I bought it).

Here’s the final part of the Mike Larson/Sunbounce/Calumet trilogy. But before we move on to the bride pictures, I’d like to give a big thanks to two new friends. Waldemar (or something like that) and Stefan from Sunbounce worked sooooo hard to make everything go smooth for Mike and me. While we were enjoying breakfast, these guys were setting up everything each morning. Waldemar (or something like that) is a former police officer from Kazachstan who’s normally in charge of manually bending German steel and putting it in the SunMover reflectors. We decided to call him the real Sun Sniper. Stefan is only 14 years old (or something like that) but seems to manage the traveling Sunbounce circus like he was born in that same circus. As you can tell, they are both big fans of Fotofolio.

In Amsterdam the weather wasn’t great but at least it didn’t rain. I felt I needed some air, so I decided to move outside for my speedlight/sunbounce demo. In this kind of industrial area, there’s lots of nice background to be found but maybe not suited for pictures of a bride. But the blue sky with some fluffy clouds seemed suitable. Backgrounds don’t always have to be vertical things. Don’t forget to look up and down when searching for backgrounds too. I needed to raise the fantastic model Julia a bit to get rid of the buildings in the background so Stefan and Waldemar (or something like that) went asking for some pallets at the nearby Calumet store.

Exposing for the sky gave me a nice background but turned the model into a silhouette. Sunbounce Pro and speedlight to the rescue. The flash was set to full power to get enough light on the model. We choose the gold/silver zebra fabric to warm up the skin tones a bit. The warm light contrasts nicely with the blue tones of the sky.

Thanks to Mike for taking these setup shots.

And here are the results:

I had an amazing four days on the road but I must admit that after the long drive home from Amsterdam I was absolutely exhausted. I’m still looking for my usual energy levels. Big thanks for all who helped organizing these workshops and to all the people who attended.

Here are the pictures from the Calumet / Sunbounce workshop in Antwerp. The day started with cold and rain but after lunch the skies cleared up and we even got some sun. It seems a bit silly to start my demonstration with the words “imagine there’s no good light” when you have this great low standing sun projecting the finest orange glow on our model. But because in our country a wedding photographer more often than not has to deal with less then ideal light. So I wanted to show in my short live shooting demo how to MAKE beautiful natural looking sunlight. So we moved into the shadow.

Off-camera flash speedlights are a good match for photographers who have to work without assistants, under time pressure and on a tight schedule in situations they don’t control. I think that’s pretty much the definition of a wedding photographer. Direct bare flash would be the easiest to use but it’s often way too harsh. Umbrella’s and small softboxes make the light softer and more pleasing but to me they often look just a bit too perfect. That’s why in those circumstances I often bounce the flash into a reflector. This creates the soft light of a bigger lightsource but it still allows the light to influence and be influenced by external factors. The catchlights also look more natural.

For these pictures we used a Sunbounce Mini reflector as this is to me the most versatile size. As you can see you can light a headshot to a 3/4 shot.
I often get the question on which Sunbounce reflector to buy: well, I think the mini (which is not so “mini” by the way) is a good choice for most photographers. I’d buy it with the zebra/white fabric (that’s what we used here). The zebra gently warms the light up without going over the top.

I finished my session with a couple of quick shots without flash. Just the sun as a hair/back light and the Mini reflector to light the face from camera left. Judging by the catchlights we might have used another reflector to fill in the shadow side, but I forgot.

It’s always difficult to get thrown in front of a crowd and perform some tricks but I guess that again is what wedding photography is all about.

Shooting film isn’t entirely new to me. I played around with it in my late teens but I don’t think I would have become a photographer without digital. I love the sheer endless possibilities of digital technology and the instant feedback. But since my old film SLR died, I miss the feeling of shooting a roll of film every now and then. Time to search for a replacement. I’ve never shot medium format (film) before, so I was thinking of looking in that way. Last week, my friend Serge was so kind to let me shoot 2 rolls of film on his Hasselblad and be my victim.

A question on Flickr, made a very kind fellow photographer (nice meeting you Bart) drive to my place and drop of some film for free. A roll of Kodak Porta 400VC was the most recent expired film, and became our first test film. I’m not a big fan of the saturated colors of this film, so I did some minor tweaking in Lightroom.

I managed to get a roll of Fuji Neopan 400 black and white film too.

I found it pretty challenging to work with the Hasselblad but I’m completely in love with the look and feel of that camera. The square format feels remarkably natural to use too. But the most important thing is that this camera challenges me to work harder on my composition, pose and light. When I started writing this blogpost I was still doubting if I would buy “Da Blad” but by now I think I’ve made my decision.

Here are the pics from day 2-5 from my 50/50 project.

Why the 50mm lens?

I promised to explain this project a bit more so let’s start by the lens choice, why did I choose the 50mm lens? Before (decent) zoom lenses start hitting the market, the 50mm fixed focal lens was considered THE standard lens and it often came bundled with SLR’s like you have kitlenses these days. A 50mm lens on a full frame lens is seen as the most neutral lens that comes close to the way the human eye sees. Our eyes can look at a wider angle but if you don’t count in the blurred edges of our vision, you’ll get a field of view close to that of a 50mm lens. Anything below that focal length can be considered a wide angle lens which distorts the edges and makes things close to the lens look larger than life. Any focal length above 50mm is in the tele range and starts to compress the depth.

I’ve been told that 50mm lenses are about the easiest lenses to construct. Most manufacturers have two or three version of the 50mm in their line-up but there will be at least one affordable lens. The 50mm 1.8 aka plastic fantastic may be flimsy, noisy and feel like a toy you get in your box of cornflakes but it gives you amazing image quality for around 100 EUR/dollars. If your budget is tight, you might at least pick up one of those if you are serious about your photography. On the upper end there are lenses like the 50mm f1.2 L which costs an arm and a leg (and maybe a lung). No doubt they are worth every of the many Euro’s if you use this lens all the time for professional work but I settled for the 50mm f1.4 USM lens. It’s much better build, more accurate in focusing and gives a better bokeh than the 1.8 but costs considerably less than the 1.2.

I used my 50mm mostly when shooting portraits in low light and for portraits with that typical ultra sharp, slightly cold look I find the 50mm gives me. But I never really considered using it a lot for anything else than portraits or for emergency low light work. That’s until I saw Jeff Ascough’s video on Canon’s Professional Network site (his blog is also an interesting read). Jeff says he uses the 50mm for 70% of his wedding images. That really made me smack my forehead repeatedly. Instead of seeing the limitations of this prime lens, I should be using the potential of it. So I started playing with the 50mm a bit in situation where I normally wouldn’t use it and got really excited. It’s wide enough to make establishing shots and it’s long enough to pick out details if you move in a bit closer. Because of the fast aperture you can work in near darkness and isolate subjects from the background. But what I found the biggest asset is that I could work a lot more low profile. I used it mostly on my 5D mkII (without the grip) and noticed that I could get really close to people without drawing too much attention. Try that with a 1D and a 24-70. What I always liked about primes is that they force you to look hard for creative angles that will give you better pictures.

These couple of little experiments tasted like more, so that’s why I came up with the 50/50 project.